White-gold dress watch with charcoal sunburst dial resting on charcoal silk

Rolex Datejust at auction

Rolex’s classic dress-sport watch since 1945, in more sizes, metals and dials than any other Rolex, offered pre-owned at Crown.

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The short answer

The Rolex Datejust, launched in 1945, was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to show the date in a window on the dial. It is made in 36 mm and 41 mm men’s sizes, with smooth or fluted bezels and Oyster or Jubilee bracelets, which makes it the most varied family in the Rolex catalogue.

The Cyclops magnifier over the date arrived in 1953 and the Jubilee bracelet was designed for the Datejust’s launch. A fluted white-gold bezel on a steel watch is the signature combination, and Rolesor, steel paired with gold, is common.

Because so many variations exist, the exact reference number matters more on a Datejust than on almost any other watch. It tells you size, bezel, metal and era.

Datejust references to know

Related reading

Pages that help you judge a Datejust before you bid.

  1. I Rolex at auction Every Rolex family, with a buying checklist.
  2. II How to spot a fake Rolex Checks for the date window and Cyclops.
  3. III Vintage watches Originality on 1960s and 1970s pieces.
  4. IV How to buy at auction Six steps from registering to delivery.

Questions

What sizes does the Rolex Datejust come in?+

The men’s Datejust is made in 36 mm and 41 mm. Smaller 28 mm and 31 mm models are also produced, and the 41 mm Datejust II was made between 2009 and 2016.

What is a fluted bezel?+

A bezel cut with fine ridges, made in gold because gold can be polished to that finish. It was originally a functional seal on Oyster cases and is now decorative.

Is a Datejust a good first Rolex?+

It is the most versatile Rolex: water resistant to 100 metres, accurate, and suited to both a suit and casual wear. Choose the size and bezel you will wear daily.

What should I check on a pre-owned Datejust?+

Confirm the date changes crisply near midnight, the Cyclops magnifies the date 2.5 times, the bracelet stretch is modest, and the reference matches the case and dial.

Related

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